Johnson pocket door installation

Set aside the piece of drywall. Unscrew the track with the drill or screwdriver. Then use the level to see if the framing in the wall is level. At this point, you can install a spacer to help make the frame more level, or use the adjustable trolleys to level the door. With the old track removed, install the new track by putting it in the same place as the old track and screw in place. Remove the old roller or trolley system on the door and replace it with the new hardware.

Buying a new track involves buying a pocket door hardware kit. Put the door on the track. Slide the door into the pocket and back out. If installed properly, it will glide smooth and quiet. Put the trim and framing back in its designated places.

Hammer back onto the wall with new nails. Putty and paint any touch-ups. Using the plywood, you will create a brace in which to screw the drywall back. The plywood will need to be in 4 strips, one for each side of the rectangle. Using drywall screws, screw the plywood to the inside of the pocket.

Then screw the piece of drywall to the lumber. Fill in the screws and seam with a quick-drying joint compound. When dry, sand it down until smooth, prime, and paint over the compound. No one will know there used to be a hole there. Pocket doors are simple mechanisms. What scares people is opening up the trim and drywall if anything goes awry. No matter the amount of repair to your pocket door, it can be DIY.

It may be a simple leveling of the door or a complete hardware replacement. All pocket doors can be adjusted and serve your house well. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. September 19, 12 Mins Read. October 12, Write A Comment Cancel Reply. When it is time to replace a pocket door, most homeowners can handle the job. The door opening is then ready for jambs on the top and far edge. All you have to do is remove the pins and the the door will come off.

Remove the screws or nails holding the drywall to the exposed studs on the other side of the wall. Step 7 repair the wall; Cut it back to the middle of the next available stud and to a height corresponding to the top of the door header.

Often the hardware is not damaged and the door blank is what requires replacement. Cost of replacing pocket doors. Lift the pocket door straight up so its rollers disengage completely from the track. This is actually a wooden box. Start with removing the molding and, with a reciprocating saw blade, cut the shims.

Remove the drywall from one side of the wall to uncover enough space for the door pocket. As the first step of pocket door replacement, you will need to cut a hole in the wall for access to the rollers and the track system, in addition to removing the frame of the door.

Go to the bottom of the door and lift it carefully. Installing drywall over the pocket and trimming the door opening with casing are the last two steps in the installation procedure. When the nails are cut, you can remove the door frame. Step 8 replace the pocket door pull; Now here in the door. Step 10 chisel the mortise for the faceplate Now, if your door is connected to the track via trolleys, the detachment process is a bit different.

That is totally something I would do. How many pocket doors have you seen with horizontal line scratches in them? These studs will prevent that and I just used a jig saw with a metal blade to cut them to the length I needed.

There are holes in the sides of the metal that allow for easy nailing or screwing into place for install. And the instructions guide you right through where to install them to leave the right size opening for your door.

And the kit comes with metal clips that get screwed into your floor and the metal wrapped wall studs clip right onto them. It really is as easy as it sounds. Since I was reusing the door that was already there, and it used to have a deadbolt, I needed to patch the hole after removing it.

I just used a hole saw and cut out a few round pieces of wood from a scrap to start to fill in the hole a bit. And then it took a few coats of spackle to fill the rest of the hole and sand it down smooth. Yes, I started to patch both the door knob and the deadbolt holes before realizing I would need to put a pocket door handle in the hole where the door knob was. Hammer to the rescue. Then flip the door over and repeat. And a real carpenter would probably tell you to use wood filler.

The answer is no. And enter the reason why I painted the aqua stripe, because I wanted to keep the one side of the door stained but I had a patched hole on the door. So I just sanded the entire side of the door and stained it the same color as the floor Modern Walnut and painted a vertical stripe to cover the patched hole. I love the added detail and it was simple fix that let me keep the rest of the door stained.

The actual hardware that the door hangs from is also a simple step, there are two rolling tracks that fit right into the pocket door rail you already attached below your header, and then two clips that get screwed directly into the top of the door. It was the effort of holding up the door and aligning these clips with the rolling tracks that I need my lovely assistant.

But once that step was done I had a complete pocket door. AND, speaking of trim. The trim install was super easy because of the holes left in the metal wrap around the studs. Because we do all dream about pocket doors. I know it. You might also be interested to read about easy to install rolling door hardware and how to install French doors on rolling door hardware. Oh I love those reclaimed rolling French Doors! Think I just might have to hang around and see what other wonderful projects you have going and try not to scare my husband with too many DIY projects..